After getting just a taste of Sicily during our cruise stop, we knew we wanted to go deeper. So we flew into Palermo and set off on a multi-day road trip across the island. In the planning stage, we had already made the executive decision to skip the southern part of the island.
Our Airbnb was in the town of Terrasini, about 30 minutes west of Palermo. It was an entire house, which sounds lovely until you realize it comes with four steep flights of stairs and zero elevator. Let’s just say carrying groceries was a workout. We definitely drew attention as we trudged back from the store, looking like total outsiders. The sidewalk scene was classic: elderly men and women chatting from plastic chairs outside their doors, giving major “Savta Nahariya vibes.” We are not ready for that stage of life yet. While in Terrasini, we discovered a pizza unlike any we have ever had before...one with crispy french fries on top drizzled with BBQ sauce.
Catania gave us mixed feelings. The beach was… okay. Not bad, just nothing to write home about. Dinner at L’antica Pizzeria da Michele was a win, great pizza, fun energy, and we loved sitting right on the street surrounded by old buildings with actual character.
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| L’antica Pizzeria da Michele |
Driving in Sicily, total chaos. If we thought Malta was tough, it was a walk in the park compared to Sicily. Our Uber driver warned us that even locals find driving in Catania insane. His exact words: “It’s like a jungle—I keep looking for Tarzan.” Message received. Do not rent a car in Catania unless you’re feeling especially brave (or reckless).
We drove across the island from west to east and back again. The roads were surprisingly good, and once you’re in the middle of Sicily, it’s wide open and rural—mostly farmland and tiny towns. We briefly considered Catania as a potential retirement spot, but after our brief stay, the answer was a firm “nope.” Maybe Siracusa would’ve changed our minds—people say it’s calmer with better beaches—but we didn’t make it there this trip.
Palermo, surprisingly was not as scary to drive in as Catania and the food was amazing. We even visited a hidden bakery in a church where all the desserts are made by the nuns!
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| Four Quarters in Palermo |
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| Enjoying aranchini |
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| The nuns baking workshop |
We wrapped up our time in Sicily with a few relaxing days in Castellammare del Golfo. Now this was more like it. Stunning views, blue warm water, and beaches framed by mountains in every direction. It was exactly what we needed after the intensity of Catania and Palermo.
In hindsight, Taormina (which we visited briefly during the cruise) gave us a very skewed idea of what most of Sicily looks and feels like—more polished, more touristy, and definitely more expensive. But we’re glad we got to see the real thing too: winding roads, authentic towns, and a few traffic-induced panic attacks along the way.
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