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Back in Lisbon

Rossio Square
We are back! It has only been a few months since we were last here, but we had such an amazing time in February that we couldn’t travel in Portugal and not visit Lisbon again. Last time we did several walking tours and visited the museums so this visit was much more chill and much busier.

Lagos had felt empty, and while was Porto busy, it didn’t feel too crowded, but Lisbon was a mad house. The line to get to the Santa Justa Elevator, Tram 28 or the pasteis in Belem went around the block (thankfully we knew the right timing so didn’t have to wait too long).

Our first stop after dropping off our suitcases was for lunch: Döner Kebab. The U.S doesn’t have the same döner kebab spots that Europe has, and this one has a special garlic sauce that M has been talking about since February. I would have to agree that it was as good as we all remembered.

In Lisbon you can buy Pastel de Nata on almost every block, and last time we tried several places but there is one clear winner and one that is a pretty good second place. We opted for our second choice pastel, Manteigaria. (Although there was no way we were leaving Lisbon without going back to Pastéis de Belém which is above and beyond the best). We must have gotten lucky at Manteigaria because there was no line and we got our six pack with a standard packet of cinnamon and walked to Praça (Plaza) do Comércio to enjoy them. 
Manteigiara and Pastéis de Belém
 
The four of us had been craving tapas since Sevilla and found a restaurant called Tapas and Friends. The prices weren’t as cheap as Sevilla but they were better than tapas restaurants back home. We decided to be a little adventurous and try some different menu choices that were local to Portugal.

The last time in Portugal we went to Cascais with a private guide who took us to a restaurant on the water. Baba and I ordered grilled octopus and he was scarred by the look, texture and taste, but he was willing to give it another shot. We also ordered cuttlefish, prawns and a local sausage with caramelized onions. We were expecting a chorizo or something similar. I took a bite and I almost vomited from the taste. I’m not sure how I managed to swallow the bite but I did. O was brave enough to try it too and as she brought the sausage to her mouth she said “this smells like manure.” I am shocked that despite the smell, she did try it and like me, saying she didn’t like it was an understatement. I ended up googling the name of the sausage and then realized it was blood sausage…yuck. 

Some of our tapas selection @Tapas & Friends

We needed something much better to clean our palates and this trip to Lisbon we were determined to try Nannarella, a recommendation from “Somebody Feed Phil,” since we hadn’t made it there in February. We knew we were in the right place when we saw a line of 20+ people; it was worth the wait. We all got different flavors and everything was amazing; although I’m not an ice cream person, this might be the best ice cream I’ve ever had (I think we all might agree)! Even though Nannarella was a 30+ min uphill walk from our Airbnb, there was no question we were going to come back again (and we did)!
Two happy girls (even before they tried the Gelato!)
We decided for the rest of our meals in Lisbon we would stick with true Portuguese comfort food: Piri Piri Chicken. There are churrasquerias all around the city, but like in Porto and Lagos, we wanted a local place that tourists didn’t swarm and Churrasqueira do Marquês was it. 
Piri Piri Chicken Plate @ Churrasqueira do Marquês
 
We arrived right when they opened at 7pm and luckily we did because within minutes the small dining room was packed with locals. The experience felt like you were in a large family dining room where everyone was chatting and laughing across the room. Our waiter didn’t speak a word of English but between his mannerisms and some similarities to Spanish, we were able to communicate. He was definitely an animated character and took a liking to O who we think remind him of his granddaughters. So much so, that when we left he kissed her on top of her head !

We had such a great time on our boat tours in Porto and Lagos that I booked one for Lisbon through Lisbon By Boat (I highly recommend them). The tour was limited to 10 people and aboard a small yacht that apparently came with drinks and appetizers. We sailed past the famous Ponte 25 de Abril/April 25 Bridge (built similar to Oakland’s Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge) and Lisbon’s Cristo Rey (Christ the Redeemer) Statue, modeled after the one in Rio de Janeiro. 
Ponte 25 de Abril & Cristo Rey Statue
 
There were several highlights for O on the boat: using the yacht bathroom where she had to pump the toilet to flush and trying her first glass of Coco-Cola. M summed it up pretty accurately when she said “this is the good life.” Indeed it is, especially as our month long trip is coming to an end. 
 
 Obrigada Portugal ! Until the next time we pack our bags to travel the world...

Adeus/Adios




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